It also was the first Macintosh computer, simultaneously with the Macintosh SE, to use the Apple Desktop Bus (ADB), introduced with the Apple IIGS, for keyboard and mouse interface. The primary improvement in the Mac II was Color QuickDraw in ROM, a color version of the graphics language which was the heart of the machine. Macintosh SE (1987). Find used Mickey Mouse Gumball Machine for sale on eBay, Craigslist, Amazon and others. WALT DISNEY VINTAGE MICKEY MOUSE GUMBALL MAC. Walt disney vintage mickey mouse gumball machine & bank in the original box superior toy mfg. Hasbro mickey mouse piggy bank penny gum ball dispenser vending machine used in good condition.
Apple Macintosh ImageWriter II Printer The ImageWriter II came in two models. The older and heavier model A9M0310 (white) or A9M0320 (gray) and the newer model G0010 (C0090LL/A or C009011/A).
They both perform and look identical; however some case parts are not interchangeable. Both accept the same AppleTalk add-on card and the ribbons and print heads are the same. The ImageWriter II is compatible with every Macintosh with a serial printer port, going back to the original Macintosh. It is also compatible with every model in the Apple II line, the Lisa 2 (Macintosh XL), and even the very rare Apple III. The ImageWriter was a main staple of printing from the Macintosh for a long time. Classic Macs need a classic printer to accompany them.
With an Apple ImageWriter printer attached to your Macintosh, you can get printed copies of your work. With most computers ( in1984) what you see on the screen and what you get from the printer look very different. With Macintosh, what you see is what you get. MacWrite produced exactly this, while Microsoft Word did not (it bent the rules a bit). It's ideal for printing on continuous-feed paper, such as payroll checks or preprinted forms. The ImageWriter II color printing feature requires an and color-compatible software (Canvas and SuperPaint for instance).
When the ImageWriter was introduced it cost $545, the ImageWriter II was introduced at a cost of $595. The ImageWriter II is designed to use track paper that is fed through a slit on the back. It has the ability to feed regular sheets of paper, but this requires a special feeder attachment called an ImageWriter II SheetFeeder. Regular paper can be used without the SheetFeeder, but must be feed in one at a time.
The ImageWriter II can also be used to print labels and envelopes. Although the ImageWriter II is no longer being produced, millions of them were made and are still a common sight in schools. It is not uncommon to see an iMac equipped with ethernet operating next to a classic Mac with an ImageWriter II. Some ImageWriter IIs have been in continuous service for 15 years. These machines were built to last a very long time. Related Links:.
Info about 'switch settings': or. Article: at www.lowendmac.com. huge info page.
Provided for your perusal by - Find Apples - made easy. Disclaimer Apple™, the Apple logo, and Macintosh™ are trademarks of Apple Inc.
Registered in the U.S and other countries. This Website is in no way endorsed by Apple Inc. All trademarks mentioned on these pages belong to their respective owners (if they still exist). The creator of this site/page or the ISP(s) hosting any content on this site take no responsibility for the way you use the information provided on this site. The Download- Links only lead to shareware or demo software.
The creator of this site is not responsible for Links outsite this Website. The owner of the linked Website are responsible at their own. You enter this site at your own risk, so if this site causes a damage at you or your computer the creator of the page is not responsible of your damage.
Situation: Your MAC mouse scroll ball is not scrolling correctly, whether it be down as in my case or up or around in general. Action (Multiple Choice): A) Buy a new mouse. B) Clean the little bugger. C) Only use the track-pad (Laptop only option) D) Slam the mouse around and hope to dislodge the dirt. Usually resulting in only Option A as the choice. This Instructable is for those of you would like to clean, mod, or otherwise see how the thing works without destroying your MAC mouse, hopefully. It's broken anyway, so what do you have to lose.
Contrary to some research and references that I have read online, a dremel is unnecessary. I used the dremel during my repair process to carve out the Apple symbol on top of the mouse. Best of luck. Tools: An Exacto knife or sharp knife from your silverware drawer. A small tipped Phillips screwdriver.
A small tipped Standard screwdriver. A multimeter if you fancy making sure the 5v power connection is still working properly. A small amount of quick dry glue or super glue. Patience, patience, patience. The purpose of this step is remove the two rings on the mouse to expose the two front plastic clips and rear clips in the body of the mouse. It is also the most important step and takes the most patience. With an Excto knife, gently pry the edges up of the Teflon Ring surrounding the main base of the mouse.
This is kind of tricky because very small plstic columns hold the ring in position around the entire base of the mouse. The pictures illustrate how small they are, so just go slow and the teflon ring will come out intact.
Mouse For Mac Computer
If columns break, then super glue is an alternative when putting the teflon ring back on the base of the mouse. The hardest part is removing the plastic ring around edge of the mouse body. Glue is strategically placed around the plastic ring. However, at each of the buttons, there is no glue. Use the small flathead screwdriver to gently pry your way around the edge of the plastic ring. Wedge a little under the ring and gently lift a bit all the way around.
Take it slow and it will not break. If it breaks, then super glue will be needed to put it back together. You will notice that the buttons on the sides of the mouse are pulled out a bit.
That's because you can use the small flathead screwdriver to pop them out a little bit and gain access to the unglued edges in order to take off the plastic ring on the main body of the mouse. After the rings are removed, the mouse will want to fall apart if you turn it right-side up. The Side Buttons have two arms that sit underneath the PCB and you will see hinged from the base. Carefully remove them. Two flat cables run from the mouse ball enclosure and another on the top of the mouse. Use the small flathead to disconnect the flat cable from the clip on the PCB. Once disconnected, the mouse can be fully opened.
On the top of the mouse is the housing of the mouse ball. On the bottom, the PCB hides the USB cable underneath and is connected by the connection on top of the PCB. On the top of the mouse is the mouse ball enclosure. It is held together with three small screws.
Note: The mouse ball enclosure screws are longer than the PCB screws. When you put the mouse back together, the shorter screws go into the bottom to hold the PCB board. The mouse ball enclosure and scroll wheels are held into place by a delicate plastic white covering. Take special notice of the orientation of this part. It only fits on ONE way. The four scroll wheels are oriented around the mouse ball. They are held in place by small ferrite wheels on the plastic posts.
The wheels are pictured in the order that can be seen when looking at the small grey covered plastic magnets in the enclosure. These pieces are super small, so be careful not to lose them. To clean the posts, gently remove the grit, grime, and gunk with the edge of the Exacto knife or your finger nail, whatever works. If you have gotten this far, then you have hopefully been able to successfully disassemble your MAC mouse. As I shared at the beginning, I used a dremel to carve out the Apple Logo. I like it and was going to piggy back an LED onto the 5v USB cable, though I thought I'd do that some other day.
To put the mouse back together. Just follow the steps you took to take the mouse apart in reverse. You may not have had to take off the PCB or cable, so your job if half over. Just be careful with the mouse buttons and flat cable installations. The flat cables can take a bit of fanagling.
The Plactic Ring around the base of the mouse should be the last piece reinstalled on the mouse. Use a couple of dabs of super glue or quick-dry glue and you're done. Replicate the tactile and auditory sensation of a 'non-mac' or windows mouse. If you have an old PS2 mouse that you can tear down, you will see the internal gearing that give the windows mouse a tactile feel and clicking sound. The Mac mouse internals are smooth, so no clicky-clicky.
The piezo provides a nearly inaudible though present sound that lets the user know they are scrolling. There isn't any tactile vibration though. I hope that's a helpful response. I also googled other responses though I think they were WAG-ging the dog.
Vintage Apple Mac Ball Mouse For Macbook
Thanks so much for this. I've struggled mightily w/ bad scrolling, but can now save at least one mouse-buying episode (depending on how hard it is to get the plastic ring off again once super-glued).
Best Wireless Mouse For Mac
One possibly helpful note is that if you're just trying to fix scroll wheel, you don't need to disconnect any ribbons or unscrew boards (you can skip steps 3-4). It's easy to access the three screws of the ball enclosure, lift it out, and clean/air-spray it's innards. Worked for me. Love the dremeled logo.:) -M. Very very good.
My original idea was to make it a backwards mouse so everything was backwards but there was the problem of clicking which was impossible so instead im making a custom body out of a mint container and i will be put up a instructable for that =). One suggestion thoe would be stating to slowly take the top off the bottom i didn't and i ended up breaking a little green wire. Not sure what it does because i plugged it in and it worked just fine.
Thanks soo much for this awesome instructable.